Nikon D300 VS Nikon D700
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Nikon officially introduced the 12.1 MP Nikon D700 FX format (equivalent to 35mm format) digital SLR on July 1st, 2008. The D700 is often said to be a “D3 in a D300 body”. Take a D3, put it in a smaller body, do some clever cost-cutting but modest feature changes, lower the price to nearly a half, and you’ve got a D700. So, just how close is the D700 to the D300?
The D700 shares a number of features with D300. Both of them sport a powerful 51-point AF system, a high resolution 3in VGA monitor with Live View, the same 1005-pixel metering system, along with an HDMI port for connection to HDTVs – albeit using a mini-jack on the D700. Both of them are also tough, offering resistance to dust and moisture.
For the camera body, the dimension of D300 is approximately 147 x 114 x 74 mm (5.8 x 4.5 x 2.9 in), D700: approximately 147 x 123 x 77 mm (5.8 x 4.8 x 3.0 in). Without battery, the weight of D700 goes up 995g and the D300 is 825g. So the D300 is slightly smaller and lighter than the D700.
The Main difference between the two cameras is that the D700 uses a FX – full frame sensor and the D300 uses the DX – 1.5x cropped sensor. The D700 employs exactly the same 12.1 Megapixel full-frame CMOS sensor as the D3, which conforms to Nikon’s FX format and deliver images with 4256 x2832 pixels when coupled with an FX-compatible lens. Like the D3, you can still use DX-format lenses, but with a cropped portion of the sensor, delivering 5 Megapixel images.
The viewfinder on the Nikon D700 features an eye-level pentaprism with high refraction index and provides 95% frame coverage with 0.72x magnification. It’s not as accurate as the D300 or the D3 which both offer 100%.
Now let’s talk about the sensor size. D700 uses a 36 x 24 size and pixel density is just 1.4MP/cm2 compared to the 23.6 x 15.8 Size and Pixel Density of 3.3MP/cm2. It means that technically the D700 should have cleaner file since the pixel density is almost half that of the D300.
Nikon D300 has 70-300mm VR lens and you effectively get a lens that has a 450mm reach at the telephoto end of the zoom range. This comes handy when you’re shooting wildlife or sports where the subjects are far away. The same lens on the D700 would result in photos where the subject will not fill up as much of the frame as it would on the D300.
In a word, the Nikon D700 is basically a Nikon D300 sized version of the Nikon D3 digital SLR. The major advancements in performance and design that were first introduced with the Nikon D3 and D300 have been incorporated in the D700 along with a few differentiating features and functionality. But the D300 is much cheaper than the D700-nearly half of the D700’s price. So whether it is worthy to upgrade your D300 to D700 depends on you needs.
Wholesale Dancewear
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When you buy wholesale dancewear you are buying from the manufacturer, and you save money. Wholesale dancewear companies are distributors for children’s, ladies and men’s dance clothes and accessories. These include a full line of leotards, unitards, skirts, tights, dance shoes and more. Most dancewear products are made of cotton/Lycra or shiny nylon lycra spandex. Many manufacturers are proud to say that their garments are manufactured in the United States and are made to fit American sizes. Several manufacturers also have a special order department that can custom make costumes for recitals and performances. Items can also be made-to-order so that you can get the styles, fabrics, colors and sizes that you need.
To keep prices low, most wholesale dancewear companies do only the minimal amount of advertising and spend little on fancy brochures or media commercials. Instead, they spend their advertising budget on websites that have become a very popular outlet for consumer purchases. They will list and often times display their products and give you the option to print a catalog online or complete your purchase with a convenient online form. They will also give you complete information on ordering, shipping and exchange policies.
When ordering, one important point to keep in mind is how soon you will need your item(s) for performances or photo shoots. You should order well ahead of time to guarantee you’ll have what you need. Most manufacturers will offer rush services at an additional cost. Also, make sure you take careful measurements and order the correct size(s) that you need. Otherwise, you may end up sending your order back, costing you more time.
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H2O Mop Review
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I’m sure you have seen the infomercial about the H2O Steam Mop. Isn’t it interesting that after this mop was advertised there are now quite a few different brands of steam mops available.
The mop converts water into steam using a micro-fiber floor cloth. When the mop touches floor surfaces, dirt and grime can be eliminated very fast. Since the H2O Mop uses the power of steam without the use of detergents or soap, it is environmentally friendly. It can kill dust mites and some types of bacteria and disinfect floors near bathroom stools, kitchen counters, pet areas, etc.
This Mop sanitizes floors also, this requires leaving the mop in one spot for several minutes. If you compare the H2O mop to one of the other popular mops like the Swiffer, one of the first things that makes it better is that you no longer need to purchase expensive cleaning solutions or the disposable pads. The H2O mop has two washable micro-fiber cloth pads.
The H2O Mop can be used on hardwood floors also. It leaves the floors dry and this is important.
The only cons about this mop are that the cord could be longer but this can be remedied with an extension cord.
There have been mixed reviews regarding the H2O mop. This may be because some were expecting it to clean the grout on their tile floor. To clean grout you would need a more heavy duty method, but the steam mop really does remove even the most stuck on grime fast and easy. You can really see a difference if you run a steam mop over a floor you have mopped the regular way.
You may actually look forward to mopping with the H2O mop! You can see the best prices for them at the link below.
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Tips On How To Get The Best Nursing Shoes
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The purchase of shoes is an area that cannot be stressed enough in the nursing field. In the past nurses wore the traditional white shoes that set a nurse apart from other professions. Over time, this has changed, and there are several other styles available, with some nurses even choosing to wear either white or black sneakers instead of the traditional shoes. The issue with shoes is that you must toss style for comfort when you are on your feet all day long. Many women, especially the younger ones, prefer style to comfort, but in the years to follow this line of thinking will take a toll on not only their backs but feet as well.
There is a great deal of controversy among health care professional about what shoes are the best for being on your feet eight to twelve hours a day, but the majority seem to feel that Nurse Mates are far from being the most comfortable. In fact, of the reviews published on this subject, many nurses and health care professionals complained that their feet actually hurt at the end of their shift. Although in the past Nurse Mates seemed to be the industry standard, many are headed toward the New Balance walking shoe or the Naturalizer for comfort and durability. Another popular brand is Dansko, which is reported as being quite expensive but also very comfortable and durable. A great many seem to also endorse the use of Dr. Scholl’s gel insoles for taking the pressure off the back while working long shifts. Several professionals also endorse the use of custom made orthotics, but the cost at $150 a pair can be out of line for many people.
Since each person’s feet adjust to different situations differently, the best thing you can do is go to a store at the end of your shift while your feet are tired and swollen from the day’s work and try on several pair of shoes. Once you find the ones that feel the best on your feet, you may choose to go online and order them at a cheaper price than the shoe store has to offer. The important thing to remember is that when you work on your feet, you must take care of them, no matter what the cost may be. Ill-fitting shoes will not only do damage to your feet but to your back as well because of the way you will walk to ease the pain in your feet from the shoes. Even if you buy a cheap uniform at the second hand store, buy the best shoes for your individual feet and don’t give a second thought to the cost. After all, if you can’t stand on your feet in the nursing profession, you can’t do your job.
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Lighting a Fine Craft Trade Show Booth – Options for the Budget-Conscious Artist
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Good lighting is a main ingredient of a successful trade-show booth. Just the right lighting system can help an artist create the atmosphere of a fine-craft gallery. This will lure gallery owners off the isles and into your booth – the first step toward making a sale.
Lighting is a relatively expensive investment. So how does the budget-conscious artist find the right solution?
When it comes to choosing a lighting system, artists new to the trade show circuit often become overwhelmed. Prices vary wildly, and each convention center may have its own lighting rules. Lighting technology is changing rapidly, making the choices harder still.
This article details what I learned while tackling the challenge of lighting my 10’X10’ booth at the American Craft Retailers Expo (ACRE), a large wholesale show for American and Canadian craft artists. As I am new to trade shows, this information is meant only as a pointer for artists in the process of choosing lighting, and perhaps also for more seasoned artists looking to update their systems.
In examining many different lighting options, my objective was to illuminate my glass jewelry beautifully but inexpensively. I wanted the lights to be lightweight and modular, to fit in boxes for shipping to the show. I was looking for contemporary styling, in silver or black. And I wanted to have at least one special lighting effect – not too flashy – to give my booth a unique element.
In his CD on booth design, art business consultant Bruce Baker suggests 1,000 watts will light up a 10’X10’ booth very effectively. I decided to stay at or under 500 watts, however, because the ACRE show includes 500 watts with the booth price, and the halogen lighting I ultimately decided upon illuminates my displays very well. Since I bought the lights at a “big-box” store with sites in virtually every city in the U.S., I can add more lights once I’m at the trade show if necessary.
The Battle of the Bulb
Contractors Choice Lighting (www.ccl-light.com) says a light fixture is simply a “bulb holder.” The bulb, therefore, should drive one’s choice of a fixture. This is somewhat true for trade-show lighting, although the fixtures may dictate the types of bulbs, depending on the choices available at the store where one shops for the lights. The CCL website offers a “Bulb Photometrics” page ([http://ccl-light.com/photometrics.html]), whose graphical representation is a refreshing departure from the complex descriptions of lighting options that have proliferated on the web.
Halogen is the bulb of choice for many trade show exhibitors. It offers a crisp, white light. Although people commonly refer to halogen as non-incandescent, it is in fact a kind of incandescent lamp. It generates light by using a thin filament wire made of tungsten, heated to white by passing an electric current through it. According to General Electric, the first halogen lamp was developed in 1959 – not too long ago for many of us!
Halogen bulbs differ significantly from the traditional type of incandescents we grew up with. The halogen bulb’s filament is surrounded by halogen gases (iodine or bromine, specifically). These gases let the filaments operate at higher temperatures. The end result is a higher light output per watt.
The gases also do something rather miraculous: Tungsten tends to evaporate off the filament over time, and the gases actually help re-deposit the tungsten onto the filament. This extends the bulb’s life way beyond that of the traditional incandescent bulb, whose evaporated tungsten clings to the walls of the bulb like a smoky apparition and eventually the uncoated filament snaps. Who hasn’t rattled a burnt-out light bulb and enjoyed the jazzy cymbal sound of the broken filament inside?
In addition to giving off more light than traditional incandescent bulbs, halogen bulbs emit a whiter light that provides better color rendition. “For highlighting and bringing out true colors, use halogen lamps,” suggests USA Light and Electric’s website (www.usalight.com). “Nothing looks better than the drama brought in with halogen lamps.”
Baker also suggests halogen lights – floodlights in particular – for a contemporary look, especially for jewelry and glass. It’s important to consider that other fine craft materials such as ceramics and wood might be better enhanced with halogen spotlights, or even with some of the more traditional incandescent lights that emit a warmer color.
Having decided upon halogen lighting, my next task would be to choose bulbs. The ACRE show takes place at the Las Vegas Convention Center, which has instituted a strict halogen lighting policy. Each light cannot exceed 75 watts, and all halogen bulbs must be factory sealed in glass (not in a removable lens or linear shape).
Thankfully, there is plenty of factory-sealed halogen lighting, in the form of PAR halogen bulbs. PAR is an acronym for “parabolic aluminized reflector.” PAR bulbs have a built-in reflecting surface made of pressed glass. The glass provides both an internal reflector and prisms in the lens for control of the light beam.
PAR bulbs are numbered, as in PAR 16, PAR 20, PAR 56. The PAR number refers to the bulb shape. Bulbs.com has a halogen section of the site where you can quickly compare the various PAR bulbs visually. Within a given category of PAR bulbs there are various wattages, wide and narrow spotlights and floodlights, different base sizes, and even different colors.
Fortunately I was able to skip the process of deciding on a PAR bulb by deciding first where to shop for my lights (more on that below).
Power Issues
When you go to shop for track lights, you’ll notice there’s a choice between 12-volt and 120-volt fixtures. 120 is the standard voltage that comes directly into most homes and offices – and convention centers.
For a lamp using 120 volts, no additional parts are necessary beyond a regular socket. 120-volt fixtures generally are lighter than 12-volt fixtures because they don’t need a transformer. They also cost less and can use halogen or regular incandescent bulbs.
I stopped short of investigating 12-volt fixtures, except to find out that they step down the amount of energy being used to a lower voltage, and thus are more energy efficient. They require a transformer to convert the 120-volt household current to 12 volts, and they may require hardwiring (although one artist I know found a 12-volt fixture with a built-in transformer which she was able to plug into a 120-volt outlet. A 12-volt fixture accommodates very efficient bulbs that offer a variety of wattages and beam spreads, including the 50-watt MR-16, which is popular in galleries.
I decided on 120-volt lighting for the trade show, because I wouldn’t have to worry about transformers and could just plug it in.
Choosing a Store and Track Lighting
I read the ACRE online forum for clues about where to buy lighting. What one artist said struck me as eminently sensible: He buys all his lighting at Home Depot, because if anything goes wrong at the show, he can find a store nearby for replacement parts.
This was something to consider: Tempting as the gorgeous designs might be, special-order lighting of any kind introduces the risk of having a malfunctioning light for the duration of a show.
Another artist on the ACRE online forum said he buys his lights from Lowes. It probably doesn’t matter which big-box store one chooses, as long as there’s one in every city.
Since I was new to trade shows and this was to be my first lighting kit, I resisted choosing from the many good suppliers on the web. I settled on the limited but attractive selection at Lowes. A side benefit of this was that my choices were comfortably narrowed.
Within the category of halogen lighting, you can get either track lights or stem-mounted lights (with arms extending outward). I went with track lights. This was partly because the stem lights I found on the web were relatively expensive and Lowe’s didn’t offer them, and partly because with track lights I could have one cord instead of several hanging down.
The Lowes lighting salesperson was helpful in putting together a full package from the track lighting on display and in stock. I decided on four, two-foot tracks to keep the size of my shipping boxes down. Here’s a rundown of what I bought:
· 4 two-foot track sections, Portfolio brand, black finish, Item #225678. Each section holds 2 lights, for a total of 8. Total: $23.12
· 8 Flared Gimbal Track Lights, Portfolio brand, Item #120673, with a satin chrome finish for a contemporary look. They are easy to attach to the track by following the directions. Total: $80.76
· 8 halogen bulbs, Par 20, 50-watt, for bright, crisp light. I bought several floodlights and a couple of spotlights. The bulbs are very packable, at a little over 3” long and 2.5” in diameter. Total: $60.00
· 2 Miniature Straight Connectors by Portfolio, Item #120716, for joining two of the track sections end to end. The idea is to have only one cord to plug in from a row of four lights. Total: $5.92.
· 2 Cord and Plug Sets, Portfolio brand, Item #120827, to power track from a standard AC wall outlet. I connected these to the end of the two of the track sections by unscrewing the covering on one side of the track. Total: $17.06
· Various Multi-Purpose Ties (cable ties), by Catamount, for attaching tracks to booth pipes. Total: $5.00
· 2 heavy-duty extension cord/power strips – 14-gauge, 15-feet, with three outlets each, Woods brand, from Lowe’s, Item #170224, model 82965. Total: $22.00
Grand total: $213.86
The Gimbal lights I chose only accept a 50-watt, PAR 20 bulb, which made it easy to pick out the bulbs. So in this case, the fixture drove the choice of bulb, not the other way around.
According to the Bulb Photometrics page at Contractors Choice Lighting, a PAR 20, 50-watt halogen flood bulb will emit a beam of light with a 5’4” diameter when it reaches 10 feet away. It offers about 12 foot-candles worth of light at 10 feet away from the bulb (a foot-candle is the level of illumination on a surface one foot away from a standard candle.)
For the sake of comparison, a PAR 30 beam offers a diameter of more than 8’ at 10 feet away, and you still get about 14 foot-candles at that distance. What happens if you notch it up to a 75-watt bulb? You get a lot more foot-candles (38) at 10 feet away. This suggests that larger trade-show booths might want to take advantage of higher PAR and higher watt bulbs.
All together, the track lighting system I chose uses 400 watts of electricity. This left me another 100 watts to add specialty or accent lighting to my booth, while still remaining at the 500-watt limit.
Cords, Plugs and Hanging Lights
The Las Vegas Convention Center has very strict rules for cords, plugs, and hanging lights.
The two-pronged, 18-gauge cords that the manufacturer has attached to your lights are acceptable (leave the UL tags and labels intact). These lighting cords cannot be plugged into the convention center outlet, however. Instead, you must plug them into a three-pronged, heavy duty, 14-gauge extension cord – or a breaker strip with a 14-gauge cord. You can then plug that 14-gauge extension cord into the convention center outlet.
A 14-gauge extension cord is capable of handling 1,825 watts. It’s helpful to read the brief extension-cord sizing and safety information on the web pages of the Underwriters Laboratories (www.ul.com/consumers/cords.html) and the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service ([http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FY800]) before purchasing a cord.
Bruce Baker suggests the cord be 20 feet with six outlets, and that it include a cord reel. I couldn’t find this type of cord at Lowe’s, so I decided on two 15-foot, heavy-duty, 14-gauge extension cord/power strips, each offering three outlets. If you have a larger booth, you can find a 25-foot cord with three outlets at Lowe’s.
There are so many different approaches to hanging lights, and so many variables to consider, that it could be a topic for another article. In general, you can hang or clip lights onto a cross bar or onto the “hard walls” of your display if you have them. Depending on the rules of a particular trade show and the size your lighting system, you may be permitted to attach the lights to the booth’s existing pipe and drape.
Since my booth design does not include my own walls, my lights will attach either to the existing pipe or to a cross bar. Cable ties (commonly called “zip ties”) appear to be tool of choice for attaching tracks to the pipes or bars, and even for attaching additional cross bars to existing pipe and drape. One artist I know uses Velcro strips, followed by cable ties to secure the attachments. There are a few entire websites for cable ties. One of them is http://www.cabletiesplus.com .
I purchased Multi-Purpose Ties from Home Depot. They can bundle 4 inches in diameter, withstand temperatures up to 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and hold up to 50 lbs.
Accent Lighting: LEDs
There are many ideas for accent lighting – although a fair treatment of the topic is beyond the scope of this article. Light-emitting diode (LED) lighting is one technology that is experiencing breakthroughs and growing fast. It takes many LEDs to equal the light output of a 50-watt bulb, and LEDs are fairly expensive, so LEDs aren’t ready for prime time when it comes to lighting a whole booth.
There are several close-up applications for LEDs, however, that are worth looking into now. An example is the in-counter light bar sold by MK Digital Direct at http://www.mkdigitaldirect.com (at a whopping $175 per foot). The more affordable MK Sparkle Light Pocket ($30) is a portable device that has extra long-life of over 100,000 continuous hours and promises to give jewelry “maximum sparkle and scintillation.”
The Nexus mini LED light system (www.ccl-light.com), meanwhile, offers a lot of illumination for its size – a puck shape not much bigger than a quarter. The company says it is for direct display lighting of crystal and glass, and it can even be submerged in water. The light is attached to a 12’ cable that ends in a plug, and has “mode switch” with seven different color choices. Unfortunately, white is not one of the color choices, and at $25 it’s a bit expensive. Still, a few of these lights combined with room lighting could draw viewers into your booth and toward your most dramatic displays.
LEDS also include tube lights, flexible lights, linear lights, and bulbs. Superbright LEDs (www.superbrightleds.com/edison.html ) has a collection of 120-volt screw-in LED bulbs for accent and other low-lighting applications, as well as a host of other fascinating products such as “plant up-light fixtures.”
At this writing, the search was still on for accent lighting to give my booth an extra special glow. Stay tuned for a future article on the results.
Online Resources
The following list is not an endorsement, but rather a starting point for research on lighting systems, cable ties, and accent lighting.
http://www.ccl-light.com – inexpensive and many choices, has “Bulb Photometrics” page to help determine how much light and what kind you want from a bulb
http://www.direct-lighting.com – stem-mounted and track lights
http://www.usalight.com – large selection of lighting and bulbs
http://www.bulbs.com – quick visual comparison of PAR bulbs (in halogen section)
http://www.cabletiesplus.com – Cable (zip) ties for securing track lights to pipe
http://www.mkdigitaldirect.com – LED lights for jewelry cases
http://www.american-image.com/products/lights/lights.html – a nice selection and visual layout of stem-mounted and other lighting (but not cheap)
http://www.brightmandesign.com/products/wash-super.html – good technical information and images of lights set-ups for trade shows; several stem-mounted clip-on designs
http://www.superbrightleds.com – LED accent lighting, including screw-in bulbs and light bars
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Coke Blak Review
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As a big fan of soda and coffee, when I first heard that Coca-Cola was going to put them together in their new Coke Blak I couldn’t wait to try it. My wife thought it sounded disgusting but I was still very eager to give it a try. Who knows, it could become my new favorite drink.
The Coca-Cola Blak website plays some jazzy little beats of music and it’s looks like a dark jazz club. I guess that’s the image their going for. It says that Coke Blak is,
A carbonated beverage that fuses Coke effervescence with coffee essence
That’s all I needed to hear, I was sold.
Actually finding it in a store was pretty hard. I definitely kept my eye out for a few months with no luck. Then, one day while shopping at the A&P, I saw some cool looking bottles tucked away in the energy drink section. Why not the soda section or the coffee section I wondered. Maybe I would have found it sooner if I knew where to look or they knew where people would be looking for it.
The cashier actually lifted the six pack of stylish bottles up for a closer look while ringing me out. She said, “This looks cool, what is it?” “Soda and coffee mixed together”, I replied. Then she remarked that she had to try it because it sounded awesome. This encounter proves that the Coca-Cola company was somehow able to make Coke Blak appeal to both 38 year old bloggers and also to teenage girls. Either that or I have the same interests as teenage girls. Hmmm…
Anyway, I rushed home and gave it a try. Definitely not what I expected. Tasted like Coke with coffee flavored syrup added to it. I was thinking that it would taste more like an espresso with Coke added to it. Since my expectations weren’t met, I was very disappointed in the drink and those cool bottles were moved to their new home in my fridge. And that’s where they stayed, unopened for a few months.
Then this morning, I decided to write this review and take a few pictures of the cool looking bottles. Why not try it again? With no expectations this time, I really enjoyed it. It’s very sweet and only has a hint of coffee flavor to it. Over ice, it’s a nice refreshing drink. I’m glad I tried it again.
So as long as you aren’t expecting an espresso drink that’s been sweetened by Coke, you’ll probably like Coke Blak.
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Kingsdown Mattress Reviews – Sealy, Serta, Simmons Comparison
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Interested in a Kingsdown innerspring-based mattress? If so, this article has some important information that you need to know.
My research team has conducted thorough mattress research by collecting data from thousands of actual mattress owners.
Based on this research, Kingsdown innerspring-based mattresses (not memory foam or latex based) ranked behind Sealy and about equal to Simmons. It performed significantly better than Serta and Spring Air.
Specifically, about 58% of the over 100 Kingsdown innerspring mattress owners included in our research found their bed to be comfortable.
Compared to non-innerspring beds, such as airbeds, memory foam beds, waterbeds and latex beds, Kingsdown scored well below these bed types as did virtually all innerspring mattress brands included in our research.
The primary reason that Kingsdown brand did not score better among its owners has to do with sagging of the mattress. The owners often complained of the bed losing support and developing body impressions or sink holes within just a few years or even months after purchase, even if they flipped or turned the bed regularly.
Kingsdown is not alone in regard to having a significant sagging issue. All of the innerspring mattresses in our research have a noteworthy sagging problem, according to their owners.
Finally, I should point out that our research does not rate particular models, but rather the brand as a whole. Consequently, there may be some Kingsdown models that perform better than others. And Kingsdown also offers non-innerspring beds, and these may be more competitive than their innerspring-based beds.
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Is it Time to Upgrade Your Bathroom Vanity Lighting?
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Lighting is essential in a bathroom. Not only does it help to highlight unique features in your bathroom is also does a wonderful job of helping to see yourself correctly in the mirror. Many women suffer from make up disasters when they do not possess the correct bathroom vanity lighting that is needed in order to see what they actually look like. Many women are recommended to put on concealer and foundation in front of a window because of the poor lighting that many bathrooms have. They end up thinking that the foundation matches their skin tone when it does not in natural lighting. Therefore, with the correct vanity lighting, no woman will ever have a problem with her make up again.
Another reason to have bathroom vanity lighting is to highlight and accentuate the features in your bathroom. Some people have the luxury of having a spa in their bathroom. With this type of lighting you can induce a relaxed and romantic feeling to your entire bathroom while signaling the features in your bathroom that make it so relaxed and romantic. You may also be able to control the vanity lighting with a dial so you can custom set the mooding of the bathroom.
Other people do not have the luxury of having a large and eloquent bathroom to show off to all of their friends. The common, middle income family has their bathroom pretty much just for the basic necessities. However, that does not mean that you cannot make it look better than it is. If you want your bathroom to have a different vibe that makes it just a little more classy, you may want to consider installing bathroom vanity lights. These lights can create a larger space even if your bathroom is extremely small. With the reflection of the light on the mirror in your bathroom you can do wonders. Plus, just by having the bathroom vanity lighting it adds a certain grace and eloquence to the overall setting of your bathroom.
Bathroom vanity lighting is rather inexpensive and you can find these lighting systems in any type of home store such as Home Depot, Home Expo, Lowes, etc. You can also buy them online if you prefer. Considering that more bathroom vanity lights have low voltage, you may even end up saving some money on your energy bill because you will not need to use the full power of the overhead bathroom lights.
Using A Hardwood Floor Sander
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Refinishing your hardwood floors yourself can be time consuming and a bit scary at first but well worth it in the long run. It can cost a bundle to hire a professional to refinish your floors for you, but if you have the time, you can do it yourself.
The most difficult part is learning to run the sander. Many people are afraid of ruining their floors, and you can really damage a floor if you do not take care in the sanding.
Sanding is fairly easy if you pay attention and the finish does not take as long to dry as you might have been led to believe. You can rent a sander from your local Home Depot or hardware supply store. You’ll need a drum sander, a belt sander or both. They will explain to you how to use the machine and tell you what kind of sand paper to purchase. They will also tell you what kind of stain and finish to get. Make sure you also pick up some dust masks because you will have saw dust everywhere.
The key to a good floor finish is the surface, so the most important thing when learning how to run the sander is getting a feel for the equipment. Sanders are not as hard to use as you think. They are loud and messy, but fairly easy to operate. Just keep the sander in motion at all times. Moving the sander in a constant motion will reduce the risk of damaging your floor. Equate it to using an iron on your clothes – if you stop in 1 spot too long you’ll burn a hole. The sander is similar since it creates a lot of heat, keeping it in 1 spot can burn or dent your floor.
The sander is a self propelling machine so it is easy to move, but you do need to keep in control of it at all times. Retain a firm grip on it when you power it up and you will get the hang of it after a few passes. You might even think it’s fun!
Once you have removed to old finish by sanding, of course, you will need to apply the new finish. First you will apply a stain (if you want a stain – some folks like to leave their floors natural) and then the finish to protect the floor. There are basically two types of floor finishes: one is oil-based and the other is water-based polyurethane. Furthermore, oil is broken down into a semi-gloss, gloss or satin. Satin is a good choice for a hardwood floor because it hides small flaws and lets the natural beauty of the wood show without a bright shine. An oil based finish will give your floor a warm amber glow. A water based finish will dry quicker and keep from yellowing.
Make sure you let each coat thoroughly dry before applying the next. Follow the manufacturers instructions on the finish before you occupy the room again. Usually you can move your furniture back in after about 24 hours.
Don’t be overwhelmed. Just take it one step at a time and you’ll soon have a beautiful new hardwood floor.
A List of Basic Hand Tools For Setting Up Shop
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Below I recommend several brands of tools. These are tools I own and have a lot of experience with or have used in the past and like. This doesn’t mean that these brands are the only ones out there or are even the best. Ask around and find out what other people like and use. Ultimately you have to make your own decision on which tools are best for you and how you work.
Woodworking covers so many facets that it’s difficult to come up with a tool list that covers the needs of every woodworker. Many tools are used for a very specific task, while others are more general tools that you find yourself using for most projects. The latter is what I’ll concentrate on in this article. Just keep in mind that if you want to learn how to make guitars (a Luther), or build a canoe, etc…there will definitely be tools that you will need that won’t be on this list. This is just to get you started. I’ve been working wood for over 10 years and trust me there are still many tools I would love to have. But just like I did you start with the basics and buy other tools as you find a need for them.
Hand Tools
Machine tools: screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, set to wrenches, pliers, crescent wrench. These are things that most already have around the house, but it definitely doesn’t hurt to have a set of these tools that are dedicated just to your shop so you don’t have to hunt all over the house when you need a Phillips screwdriver. These can all be picked up at your local hardware store.
Set of bench chisels: 1/4″ to 1″. I’ve used a set of Marples chisels for years. Irwin has bought them so they may show up under their name now. The full set costs around $50.00 Cheaper chisels just won’t hold an edge (meaning they dull too easily). The Marple chisels hold an edge OK. Home Depot and Lowes used to carry them but they’re not showing up on their websites now. Amazon.com has them for $50
Handplanes: A jack plane (sometimes referred to as a No. 5) and a low angle block plane. The jack plane gets it’s name from being the “jack of all trades”. It’s a medium size plane and can be used for many tasks. I recommend buying a used one, specifically an old Stanley No. 5. Look at flea markets and garage sells or try eBay (this is where I got mine years ago). A block plane will be one of the most used tools in your shop, so buy a good one. If you can afford it Lie-Nielsen.com or Lee Valley.com both have excellent low angle blocks from $75 to $119 A cheaper alternative would be a Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block for around $40.
Handsaws: panel, or Japanese Ryoba and Dozuki. Western saws cut on the push stroke; Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke. My advice is to try out both and see which you like better. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Personally, I like the Japanese saws for most jobs, but I still like a western type saw for cutting dovetails. Lowes and Home Depot both carry Japanese saws. Another good place to look is Japanwoodworker.com
Layout tools:tape measure, small and large size try squares, marking gauge, pencil compass, 6″ and 12″ rulers, bevel gauge, combination square.
Hammer: 16oz standard and a wooden or dead-blowstyle mallet for working with chisels and other tools.
Card scraper: an inexpensive tool that is indispensable in the shop (especially if you dislike sanding). These tools can take extremely thin shavings of wood and leave a very smooth surface. They can be tricky to sharpen though. We’ll cover scrapers more in depth in a future article.
Rasps: a coarse and fine cabinetmaker’s style. These are used to shape wood especially table legs.
There’s my list of basic hand tools to get you started. Some, you will need from the very beginning. Some you can wait on. My advice is to figure out what you want to make with your woodworking and then start building. You’ll figure out quickly the tools you really need and the ones you can wait to get.
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